Vero Profumo

I was lucky enough to win a set of three samples by Swiss perfumer Vero Kern, from fellow Swiss, Andy Tauer. Thanks, Andy, for giving me the chance to experience these Vero Profumo fragrances way ahead of the rest of the U.S. (They won't be available here until 2008.)

Kiki
Notes: lavender, caramel, musk

It's amazing how well the green herbal quality of lavender blends with the sweetness of caramel. And when I say "green," I mean shocking chartreuse. While the scent of lavender can be quite bracing, the sugar lifts it to a place where it almost becomes a "happy" scent. There's also a bit of powderyness that, conbined with the sweet note, reminds me of the plastic toys of my youth, but I think it's just the musk coming in.

In the drydown, as the musk takes a stronger hold, the lavender loses some of its bright, upbeat, quality and takes on its usual soporific tones, mellowing out and relaxing in the sweetness and light that surrounds it. It strikes me that it would be an interesting flavor for a cake. Definitely my favorite of the three.

Rubi
Notes: orange blossom, musk, jasmine

The honey-sweetness of orange blossom sings forth boldly in Rubi. There's also a bit of citrus fruit in there, a hint of juice but mostly a dustier note reminiscent of dried peels. The jasmine is very indolic and its power quickly pushes the orange blossom out of the way, yet doesn't overtake it entirely. In the drydown, we get a light musk that battles with the jasmine a bit, then gives up and steps back to mingle with the orange blossom.  However, the scent remains bright and floral and does not succumb to a powderyness or mere muskiness, nor does it fade as much as Kiki.

Although such indolic jasmine isn't my thing, I can really appreciate Rubi for how the orange blossom never really disappears, but instead wafts in and out, allowing other components to share in the limelight.  But in the end, it is the star note.

Onda
Notes: vetiver, ginger, mace, coriander

The vetiver is huge and powerful, unmistakably earthy with a strong woodsy element, and extremely pungent. The spices, particularly the mace and coriander at first, are evident as well, with the ginger coming along a little later. And there's an overall smoky quality to the scent, as if all the elements were existing in a campfire. Unfortunately, although Andy's description of this sounded completely wonderful, I'm happy I spritzed this on paper rather than on skin; I had to wad it up and dispose of it in a plastic bag, Hazmat style. It was too strong, too powerful, and a little unpleasant. My husband, who was in the room with me, said, "phew, it smells like a mens room." And that about sums it up.