New Creations by the House of Guerlain
posted Friday, 26 January 2007
The House of Guerlain has been in business since 1828, producing stalwarts like Jicky (1889), Mitsouko (1919), and Shalimar (1925) that have long been the favorites of millions. One hundred seventy-nine years later, Guerlain is still going strong and releasing new creations by fourth-generation master perfumer, Jean-Paul Guerlain.
I recently obtained samples of a couple of the house's newer creations, Nuit d'Amour, a 2006 limited edition, and L'Instant, the star fragrance from 2003. Although I had already commented on the 2006 release, Insolence in my Fragrant Friday column, I've included it here as well.
Nuit d'Amour
Notes: pink pepper, lychee, rose, violet, iris, sandalwood, musk
Nuit d'Amour means "night of love" in French. "Jour de Cheveux" may be a more appropriate name for this one. That's not to say it isn't a lovely fragrance - it is - just not what I was expecting. It's hardly an accurate representation of the image that phrase conjures in my overactive imagination. I expected something richer, with a deeper musk, amber, a heady rose, some spice. But Nuit's opening volley smells exactly like shampoo, an innocuous sweet fruity floral with musky overtones. As the scent develops, it more closely resembles an actual perfume, one of those old-fashioned rose/violet/iris scents that's floral and somewhat powdery, but yet not overpowered by the iris/violet punch.
The drydown retains that fruity muskiness, but eventually it becomes less shampoo-like. Overall, I do like this scent, but don't feel it matches expectations. Especially at the price - $2600 for a Baccarat flacon, and $390 for 60 ml (slightly more than 2 ounces).
L'Instant
Notes: citrus honey, bergamot, mandarin, magnolia inclusion, sambac jasmine, ylang-ylang, amber harmony, sandalwood
L'Instant starts off with citrusy magnolia with an undercurrent of honey, a note I'll never quite appreciate as it always reminds me of the sticky sweet smell of dried urine (the smell of underground parking garage stairwells). The amber drydown doesn't come fast enough for me, and doesn't quite cover the honey scent. As it drys, the magnolia becomes more "white" as far as florals go, another non-favorite for me.
A couple hours later, the honey fades and the amber is more present, turning L'Instant into a soft, warm floral. But that's too long in coming for my tastes. I'm sure this perfume is simply lovely on other folks though, it's just not my thing.
Insolence
Notes: iris, orange blossom, rose, violet, sandalwood, white musk, tonka bean, raspberry
According to Webster's Dictionary, insolence means: 1. insultingly contemptuous in speech or conduct; 2. exhibiting boldness or effrontery. I suppose Guerlain is going for the second definition, eh?
The Sephora Web site claims, "this unconventional fragrance sweeps you straight into its heart: a new interpretation of violet. Exuberant notes of violet are accompanied by jubilant red berries like raspberry. A hint of orange blossom and rose impart a striking intensity, while sensual iris and tonka bean resins finish the scent, making Insolence the ultimate luxury fragrance."
On me, however, it smells of an aerosol deodorant that my mother used when I was a kid, one that went on wet but immediately dried into a white powdery substance, not unlike the fake-snow flocking stuff one sprays on the windows in the winter, and a powdery iris. Eventually, the violet and raspberry comes out in the drydown, but it never quite loses that old-fashioned deodorant smell.
Rather than "exuberance" and "jubilance," it's more "stinky." And there's nothing "unconventional" about it - it's the same rose/iris/violet powdery smell that so many perfumes have (see yesterday's post). I will say, however, that I do like the dryness of the raspberry when it eventually makes its appearance, and wish there were a fragrance out there that revolved around that particular note.
I recently obtained samples of a couple of the house's newer creations, Nuit d'Amour, a 2006 limited edition, and L'Instant, the star fragrance from 2003. Although I had already commented on the 2006 release, Insolence in my Fragrant Friday column, I've included it here as well.
Nuit d'AmourNotes: pink pepper, lychee, rose, violet, iris, sandalwood, musk
Nuit d'Amour means "night of love" in French. "Jour de Cheveux" may be a more appropriate name for this one. That's not to say it isn't a lovely fragrance - it is - just not what I was expecting. It's hardly an accurate representation of the image that phrase conjures in my overactive imagination. I expected something richer, with a deeper musk, amber, a heady rose, some spice. But Nuit's opening volley smells exactly like shampoo, an innocuous sweet fruity floral with musky overtones. As the scent develops, it more closely resembles an actual perfume, one of those old-fashioned rose/violet/iris scents that's floral and somewhat powdery, but yet not overpowered by the iris/violet punch.
The drydown retains that fruity muskiness, but eventually it becomes less shampoo-like. Overall, I do like this scent, but don't feel it matches expectations. Especially at the price - $2600 for a Baccarat flacon, and $390 for 60 ml (slightly more than 2 ounces).
L'InstantNotes: citrus honey, bergamot, mandarin, magnolia inclusion, sambac jasmine, ylang-ylang, amber harmony, sandalwood
L'Instant starts off with citrusy magnolia with an undercurrent of honey, a note I'll never quite appreciate as it always reminds me of the sticky sweet smell of dried urine (the smell of underground parking garage stairwells). The amber drydown doesn't come fast enough for me, and doesn't quite cover the honey scent. As it drys, the magnolia becomes more "white" as far as florals go, another non-favorite for me.
A couple hours later, the honey fades and the amber is more present, turning L'Instant into a soft, warm floral. But that's too long in coming for my tastes. I'm sure this perfume is simply lovely on other folks though, it's just not my thing.
InsolenceNotes: iris, orange blossom, rose, violet, sandalwood, white musk, tonka bean, raspberry
According to Webster's Dictionary, insolence means: 1. insultingly contemptuous in speech or conduct; 2. exhibiting boldness or effrontery. I suppose Guerlain is going for the second definition, eh?
The Sephora Web site claims, "this unconventional fragrance sweeps you straight into its heart: a new interpretation of violet. Exuberant notes of violet are accompanied by jubilant red berries like raspberry. A hint of orange blossom and rose impart a striking intensity, while sensual iris and tonka bean resins finish the scent, making Insolence the ultimate luxury fragrance."
On me, however, it smells of an aerosol deodorant that my mother used when I was a kid, one that went on wet but immediately dried into a white powdery substance, not unlike the fake-snow flocking stuff one sprays on the windows in the winter, and a powdery iris. Eventually, the violet and raspberry comes out in the drydown, but it never quite loses that old-fashioned deodorant smell.
Rather than "exuberance" and "jubilance," it's more "stinky." And there's nothing "unconventional" about it - it's the same rose/iris/violet powdery smell that so many perfumes have (see yesterday's post). I will say, however, that I do like the dryness of the raspberry when it eventually makes its appearance, and wish there were a fragrance out there that revolved around that particular note.
comments (1)
1. Andree left...
Monday, 29 January 2007 3:59 pm
Well, as I told you privately, I received Insolence for a Christmas gift,
and really love it. The opening note strikes me as sweet, but when it's on
me for a while, it settles down and blends nicely with my body chemistry.
Over the years, I've leaned toward dark and musky scents, and so Insolence
makes a sweet departure from what I usually wear.